A billion shards of light: Surfing at sunrise

14 05 2009

Remembering...

 

That morning...

 

 

 

 

 

 

Today’s post is a guest contribution from my well-travelled photographer friend Ana Vuckovic. You can find out more about her and see some of her work here.

When I read this for the first time, it gave me goosebumps. The writing – by an old man remembering a moment from his younger, more active days – is so vivid and descriptive that the images leap out at you from the page. You will love it – especially if you’ve ever been for an early morning surf on a deserted beach.

Let it inspire you to do something today, that you will remember forever.

– Quinton

**

I just read the most amazing book by a great, true blue Australian author, Tim Winton. The book is called “Breath”. Tim’s novels often touch on the subjects of surfing and the ocean, especially in Western Australia, where he grew up. Here is a passage from the novel “Breath”, which I really quite liked:

“On a still morning in late September, in a lull between cold fronts, Loonie and I pedalled with our boards to the Point where the waves were small and clean and the cold water was as clear as the sky.

“We sat inside at the mellow edge of the rip and paddled into waist-high rollers that carried us hooting and howling in to the beach. We had the place to ourselves. The sandbanks rippled underfoot, schools of herring swerved and morphed as one in the channel, and across in the bay the breaths of breaching dolphins hung in the air.

“I will always remember my first wave that morning. The smells of paraffin wax and brine and peppy scrub. The way the swell rose beneath me like a body drawing in air. How the wave drew me forward and I sprang to my feet, skating with the wind of momentum in my ears.

“I leant across the wall of upstanding water and the board came with me as though it was part of my body and mind.

“The blur of spray. The billion shards of light.  

“I remember the solitary watching figure on the beach and the flash of Loonie’s smile as I flew by; I was intoxicated.

“And though I’ve lived to be an old man with my own share of happiness for all the mess I made, I still judge every joyous moment, every victory and revelation against those few seconds of living.”

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3 responses

14 05 2009
Tony

I love the idea of measuring my life against a moment like that… I’ll have to do some thinking about what that moment would be … there’s been a few!

12 12 2009
Immoneelexilk

Fantastic… kinda great matter. I will blog about it likewise!!

14 12 2009
Quinton McCauley

Thank you!

Quinton

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